Acne Studios Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Jonny Johansson, the creative mind behind Acne Studios, expressed his thoughts before the show, reflecting on the complexity of fashion concepts and their execution. The collection he presented at this show was a blend of ideas, inspired by construction sites and the moment when the lights come up as a club closes – transitional spaces. The influence of artist Katerina Jebb's feminocentric archeology also played a significant role in shaping the collection.

Johansson emphasized the importance of denim, a material that has always held a special place for Acne Studios. Denim, the foundation of Acne's success, was reimagined and reclaimed on the runway. It appeared on flying-waist gray skirts, layered under chalky cracked plaster, and at the waist of heat-pressed red leather coats. Denim miniskirts and a lace trucker jacket were layered in plaster, symbolizing a process of renovation and restoration.

The collection featured relics from Jebb's work, "Physical Evidence of a Woman," such as false eyelashes and discarded pantyhose, imprinted on garments as fossils of femininity. Feather tufts adorned ribbed jersey dresses and vests, while a trench coat was cut to appear as if done up in the dark. Tulle pom-poms were whimsically scattered across sheer dresses in plain and checked patterns.

One standout ensemble included a dark brown leather coat, teak leather skirt, and off-white leather mini dress with conjoined hands-free handbags. Ragged jersey skirts were designed to sit off the hip, suspended in a unique fashion statement. Vest tops and bras were entangled in an inversion of conventional styling, symbolizing the aftermath of a night out.

The show concluded with square-studded jeans that hinted at a return to a more conventionally put-together style. This Acne Studios collection offered a captivating array of disheveled and deconstructed paradigm pieces, free from unnecessary complexity – a bold direction for women's fashion.