Chet Lo Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Chet Lo's latest collection bore the intriguing title 鹹濕, which, in Cantonese characters, roughly translates to "salty," "pornographic," or "dirty." The deliberate ambiguity of these words combined was a central theme in Chet Lo's collection. While his designs have always exuded a unique brand of unconventional sensuality, particularly with his signature clingy mesh popcorn technique, this season he fully embraced the racier side of his brand.

However, this exploration didn't unfold in the most expected manner. Chet Lo explained, "I was reflecting on my sexuality, especially as a queer person of color, and how I never saw Asian people represented in porn, or at least not in a way that wasn't fetishized. The title might translate as something perverted and dirty, but it's also a story of sexual liberation. Sex is natural, but I grew up being so ashamed of it, so being able to embrace it through my designs has been a real turning point."

To convey this message, Lo drew inspiration from quite literal sources and then transformed them from within. He used prints from ancient Chinese erotic art and Japanese shunga, an artistic tradition that flourished during the Edo period and often depicted same-sex couples. These prints were abstracted as halftone patterns on satin devoré tops or overlaid onto knits. Some looks featured lace-up details inspired by Japanese erotic rope play shibari, culminating in an intricate woven breastplate inspired by Chinese knotting. Notably, the hair, created by Anna Cofone, incorporated the shibari influence, transforming it into sculptural tentacles that towered above the models' heads.

In addition to these daring details, Chet Lo introduced elevated looks to the collection, such as a stunning chiffon and silk devoré bias-cut gown in cornflower blue with a flowing scarf attached that trailed behind the model as she walked. Chet Lo shared his vision for the brand's evolution, saying, "I know the brand started off being very edgy and Gen Z, but I really want to develop it into something that has a luxury feel. I want to make clothes for a whole variety of people." Judging by the front row reception, Chet Lo's popcorn dresses remained perennial favorites, but he demonstrated that he has a wide range of creative endeavors to explore.