Dior Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Maria Grazia Chiuri, the trailblazing creative director of womenswear at Dior since 2017, is no stranger to gender bias. Throughout her tenure, she has faced criticism from some who dismiss her efforts to create wearable and comfortable clothing for women as mere commercialism. Yet, Chiuri has remained steadfast in her commitment to challenging sexist stereotypes, often using irony and wit to do so.

When confronted with the argument that female designers who produce marketable collections are seen as lacking creativity compared to their male counterparts, Chiuri doesn't mince words. "Absolutely! No doubt about that," she exclaims. She then playfully adds, "But it’s because the geniuses are only men."

Chiuri's mission to create comfortable clothing for women isn't about boosting sales; it's about prioritizing women's comfort. She firmly questions the idea that women should endure discomfort for the sake of fashion: "No, it’s because I want them to be comfortable because I don’t understand why we have to be uncomfortable. It comes from this idea that I make some choices not because it’s my creative process, not because it’s my values, but for other reasons."

This conversation arose in the context of her spring show, which featured an immersive video installation by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni. The installation challenged the male gaze, displaying feminist slogans prominently on the walls of a cube-like tent in the Tuileries gardens in Paris. Chiuri emphasizes the importance of developing a critical eye in an era inundated with images on social media platforms: "This is also a way to question myself because I received these images, and probably I didn’t realize it so much in the past. Now, I have another maturity."

As a creative director, Chiuri recognizes the risk of inadvertently perpetuating stereotypical ideas and feels a sense of responsibility to avoid doing so.

Her spring collection stayed true to the classic Chiuri style, combining feminine and tomboyish elements inspired by the house's archives. The collection included reinterpretations of founder Christian Dior's 1948 Abandon dress, with modern updates. Pieces such as cutaway shirts with extra-long sleeves, pleated skirts with inky prints, and boyfriend blazers provided fresh takes on classic Dior styles.

Notable features of the collection included ghost-like prints of the Eiffel Tower and X-ray floral motifs. Chiuri also explored the theme of rebellious women, particularly those historically labeled as witches, through cobwebby knits and singed-edge jean jackets.

The collection's all-black ensembles, inspired by non-conforming women who defied societal norms, drew parallels with characters like Wednesday Addams, whose gothic style permeated the collection. The gladiator-style mary jane shoes added a cool edge to the looks.

While some fashion skeptics may miss the finer points of Chiuri's collections, her success continues to grow. She remains unapologetic and resilient in her quest to empower women through fashion, all while enjoying her triumphs.