Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Milano Fashion Week SS24 (September 23, 2023).
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While fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipated Kylie Jenner's arrival at the Dolce & Gabbana show, the venue played Billie Eilish's song "What Was I Made For?" on repeat, with Jenner's tardiness testing the patience of those in attendance. Her delayed entrance prompted thoughts of whether this wait was worthwhile.
Nonetheless, the show itself demonstrated the enduring creativity of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana as they approach their 40th anniversary in the fashion industry. In recent times, the designers have delved into their archives, driven in part by celebrities like Jenner, who have sought vintage Dolce & Gabbana pieces or even procured them independently.
Their spring mood board featured images of '90s icons such as Monica Bellucci, Linda Evangelista, and Nadja Auermann donning early Dolce & Gabbana designs. These photos were juxtaposed with pictures of Catherine Deneuve in "Belle de Jour" and Helmut Newton's iconic shot of Yves Saint Laurent's groundbreaking Le Smoking tuxedo. The overarching theme was undeniably seduction.
For those in search of satin corset dresses or delicate tulle slips paired with triangle bras, briefs, and garter belts, Domenico and Stefano proved themselves to be the go-to designers. Lingerie has become a recurring trend both on the runways and in everyday fashion, but the designers have been crafting these looks long before the current generation embraced them. They also revisited the timeless Peter Pan–collar '60s shift, while glossy trenches and coordinating kerchiefs evoked a similar era.
The tailoring on display was nothing short of timeless, serving as a counterpoint to the skin-baring corsetry. Notably, a traditionally cut double-breasted tuxedo in ivory with black satin lapels and pocket flaps made a striking impression. However, the designers injected playful elements into their creations, such as twisting a jacket to create a one-sleeve look or cropping a single-breasted tuxedo at the waist to showcase satin knickers worn over pantyhose. This pantsless trend has been gaining momentum in the fashion world, with influencers embracing the style. Dolce & Gabbana's bold approach demonstrated their willingness to stake a claim in this fashion movement.
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