Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Paris Fashion Week SS24 (September 27, 2023).
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Dries Van Noten's Spring Summer 2024 collection celebrated the notion that "easy doesn't have to be boring." In an effort to make the familiar unfamiliar, the Belgian designer took a casual and utilitarian approach to sporty daywear, deviating from the previous seasons' heavy embroidery and florals in favor of wearable separates.
Van Noten drew inspiration from sports like rugby, cricket, and tennis, as well as 1920s knit bathing costumes. Although there are fashion exhibitions and the 2024 Olympics on the horizon in Paris, he opted for daywear over dressing national teams, laughing off the idea.
The collection featured Van Noten's signature masculine/feminine proportion play, with club jackets, pants, and deconstructed tennis sweaters. He effortlessly made a denim suit stylish, combining a blazer with pagoda shoulders and Bermuda jorts.
Elegant shirt-stripe dresses with twists at the midsection and sensuous shirt-stripe bra tops added a classic yet sensual touch to the collection. Rugby stripes were reimagined as drawstring pants and shirt dresses worn open over silky micro-sequin skirts.
Sport lacing details cinched waistlines and shaped various pieces, from khaki shirt dresses to cargo skirts. Crochet bikini tops peeked out from beneath oversize men's shirts and trench coats, while boxy military jackets and lustrous cargo pants introduced utility wear elements.
Prints and embellishments were understated, with bi-color combinations and simple motifs like swirls and birds. Accessory-wise, the collection showcased elaborate embellishments, including curved Virgo heels with graphic patterns, beading, fringe, and distorted jewels.
Van Noten encouraged women to dress as they pleased, which was evident as buyers debated whether to acquire entire looks or separates, ultimately deciding on both. The collection aimed to provide women with the freedom to express their individual style preferences.
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