Edward Crutchley Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Edward Crutchley's Spring Summer 2024 collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week, serves as a captivating exploration of the harmonious juxtaposition between myriad influences. In a monochromatic showcase, Crutchley skillfully contrasts the old with the new, the conservative with the seductive, the elevated with the casual, and the traditional with the modern. The result is a visually stunning collection, an explosion of cultures, eras, and influences harmoniously woven into a black and white tapestry of sartorial artistry.

Crutchley's collection draws inspiration from a diverse array of sources, as articulated in the show notes. From "harlequins" to "oversized tracksuits," from "a latex gown" to "Steven Meisel," his creative process is a rich tapestry of ideas. Particularly intriguing is his vision of "a woman in an academic skirt that falls to her ankles which she has accessorized with a choker." This vision manifests in the collection's contrasting elements, such as mesh and latex, skin and clothing, hoods and bald caps.

The show's venue itself serves as a juxtaposition, hosted at St Cyprian's at Clarence Gate, London—an Anglican Parish within the Church of England. The ornate stained-glass windows, carved wooden pews, and intricate gold-tipped details on the ceiling create an ambiance reminiscent of a sacred event, with models striding up the runway in the presence of divine imagery (or at least statues thereof). However, the reverberating bass of the 'Boney M. – Rasputin' remix and the explicit fits showcased on the runway tell a contrasting narrative.

The deliberate reduction of color, a recurring motif in Crutchley's designs, adds a sense of continuity amid the collection's apparent chaos. A monochrome billowing tiered-frill dress in cream mesh with black piping, juxtaposed with heavy black boots, exemplifies the theme of contrast prevalent throughout. Additionally, zebra-striped bags in the whimsical shapes of dogs and rabbits adorn models' shoulders, adding a touch of playful irreverence.

The monochromatic theme extends to the makeup, with obsidian smokey eyes and black lipstick boldly contrasting with flesh-colored flesh masks and bald caps worn by select models. This exploration of flesh, bare skin, and nudity finds its expression in the muted flesh tones of mesh tank tops and dresses, as well as garments adorned with printed naked torsos, spanning from dresses to impeccably tailored suits.

Crutchley's vision for Spring Summer 2024 is a study in contrasts, as evident as if it were rendered in black and white. It embraces inspirations from diverse origins, yet the final result is a collection that strikes a harmonious balance between cohesion and chaos.

In navigating the perennial challenge that every designer faces—whether to adhere to tradition or embark on a daring path of innovation—Crutchley boldly chooses both. The outcome is a time capsule, a monochromatic cinematic snapshot that captures the past, present, and future of Crutchley's designs within a single frame.