Gabriela Hearst Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at New York Fashion Week SS24 (September 12, 2023).
Closeups for Gabriela Hearst Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show.
Gabriela Hearst, the celebrated designer known for her commitment to sustainability and luxury, is gearing up to present her final collection for Chloé in Paris. After three transformative years at the Richemont-owned brand, she's preparing to bid adieu, but her journey continues with her eponymous label, which is making waves in the world of fashion. In a preview of her upcoming collection, Hearst provided insights into her creative process and unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and sustainability.
While questions about her departure from Chloé were deflected by her PR team, Hearst didn't shy away from discussing her experiences traveling back and forth to Paris. "But, I think it's good," she commented, emphasizing that she doesn't mind the travel aspect of her work.
Back in the United States, Gabriela Hearst has a flourishing business to manage, including the exciting opening of her Los Angeles store on November 9. Her journey is fueled by the desire to support and preserve the craft that underpins her creations, ensuring that it doesn't vanish into obscurity. She expressed her satisfaction with the state of retail, noting that the transition toward more sustainable practices is taking shape.
For her Spring Summer 2024 women's collection, Hearst drew inspiration from the Druids, the high-ranking priestly class within the ancient Celtic society around the third century BC. She delved into the history of Druid society, emphasizing the prominent role of women within it. Her research led her to the work of Haitian artist Levoy Exil, known for weaving spiritual motifs into his art. Collaborating with a Bolivian cooperative, Exil and the cooperative designed exquisite macramé knits that became a focal point of the collection.
Hearst proudly shared the immense effort behind these pieces, explaining that it took 31 artisans more than 5,000 hours to create the collection. The white macramé poncho alone demanded 1,500 hours of meticulous craftsmanship. She revealed that there is indeed a market for such artisanal luxury, with four clients already expressing interest in custom-made couture pieces that straddle the line between garments and art.
Gabriela Hearst's design approach remains rooted in her signature style, starting with variations on her luxurious silk wool suiting. This season, she introduced organza options, catering to the needs of a changing climate—a testament to her sustainability-minded perspective.
Throughout the collection, ivory linen tailoring displayed a pleasingly raw texture, including a trenchcoat featuring silk chiffon pleats that made it airy and light. An ivory silk gown with a caped-back exuded red carpet glamour, anticipating the return of such events. Meanwhile, a black dress contoured to the waist with origami-like, ruched leather cap sleeves delivered a touch of mystique.
Hearst embraced the sheer trend with crochet knits adorned with tiny glass beads or scrap leather pieces. Recycling took center stage as a constellation of recycled sequins was woven into a wool base on a black off-shoulder gown. The collection also featured a fil-coupe feathered technique, creating organic swirl borders on duchess satin capes and dresses in ivory and black.
In Hearst's world, ready-to-wear has become a significant portion of her business, accounting for 65 percent. She recently ventured into the world of fragrances, launching her first perfumes, available exclusively in her New York store in a limited edition of 300. For Hearst, this endeavor is about maintaining control and integrity. She remarked, "I think you have to own the verticality of your perfume. It's important to have that control from an image perspective." It's a testament to her unwavering commitment to creating a true luxury experience in every aspect of her brand.
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