GCDS Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Milano Fashion Week SS24 (September 21, 2023).
For Giuliano Calza's Spring Summer 2024 collection at GCDS, the usual motifs of cartoons, manga, and fantasies took a back seat. Instead, Calza drew inspiration from his hometown, Naples, to create a collection that looked towards the future. He wanted to break away from nostalgia and explore the idea of a future as portrayed in the animated series Futurama.
Homage to Naples - The collection paid homage to Naples with colors like light blue, yellow, and wood brown that recalled memories of the city. Calza used flat-ironed raffia to create 3D logos and printed leather that was reminiscent of his grandmother's wooden furniture. He even brought back a telephone from his grandmother's home, reimagining it in brown instead of its original transparent version. Denim ties and weightlessly evanescent shirts added to the unique aesthetic.
Naples-Inspired Accessories - Accessories played a significant role in capturing the essence of Naples. See-through beads, pleats resembling waves, and chains and hooks symbolizing the city's bolts all contributed to the Naples-inspired theme. Calza also introduced a lurex knit that appeared spiky due to micro knots but was actually soft, mirroring the spirit of his hometown.
Distorted Memories and Relaxed Silhouettes - Asymmetrical designs in the collection represented the distortion of distant memories. Classic fits were exaggerated to appeal to a younger audience, featuring relaxed silhouettes that offered a contemporary and comfortable style.
Italian-ness in a Newly Designed Future - The soundtrack for the show featured a mixtape of clichéd southern Italian songs, aiming to convey a sense of Italian-ness within a newly designed future for the brand.
A Homecoming in More Ways Than One - Calza's interpretation of "coming home" was multi-faceted. Not only did he present a collection inspired by his hometown, but he also staged the show in GCDS headquarters. The intimate setting, covered in plastic like a move-in process, added a personal touch to the presentation. Additionally, the same space was set to host 100 students for another show, demonstrating a direct effort to engage with a younger audience and introduce them to the brand.
GCDS's Spring Summer 2024 collection represented a departure from the brand's usual cartoon and manga influences. Instead, it drew inspiration from Naples, with colors, textures, and accessories that paid homage to the city's unique character. Giuliano Calza's approach to combining memories and a futuristic twist resulted in a collection that was both nostalgic and forward-looking, appealing to a new generation with relaxed and contemporary silhouettes. The decision to stage the show in the brand's headquarters and engage with young students highlighted a commitment to bringing fresh energy and enthusiasm to GCDS.
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