Heliot Emil Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada and Julius Juul of Heliot Emil embarked on a unique journey by feeding their past work, and in Juul's case, even this season's designs, into a computer. They then embarked on the intricate task of editing and deciphering the machine's translations of their distinctive design DNA into wearable garments. Both designers quickly realized that, despite AI's capabilities, it cannot fully replace the role of human creativity in the design process.

The Juul brothers, Julius and Victor, who serve as creative and business directors for Heliot Emil, were early adopters of this experimental technology. Rather than embracing the typical silver-and-white retro-futuristic aesthetics often associated with tech, Heliot Emil has always focused on what's next in fashion innovation. For the brand, innovation involves incorporating new elements such as 3D printing or digital fashion shows to explore how they interact with their designs and prevent repetition.

Heliot Emil's design aesthetic is characterized by its hardness, sleekness, streamlined silhouettes, and abundant hardware, often devoid of strong emotional undertones. Surprisingly, the spring collection resulting from the AI experiment carried unexpected poetic elements, particularly in the increased use of draping, which took on both classical and deconstructed forms. Julius Juul noted that this experiment led him to introspection and expanded the team's creative horizons, but it also posed challenges, as AI-generated designs occasionally defied the laws of physics in the real world.

One solution was to incorporate suspension techniques, even without visible hardware, into the designs. The collection showcased less voluminous pieces and more layers and draping, creating a sense of fluidity and grace. This shift in aesthetic moved Heliot Emil's signature style from a more austere Rick Owens vibe towards a nuanced interpretation reminiscent of Ann Demeulemeester 2.0. The collection, however, could have benefited from some editing to convey its message more succinctly.

The dichotomy between the human touch and machine precision resonated in the interplay of organic and engineered elements, tangible and abstract. While AI struggled with the latter, designers grappled with the complexities of intangible concepts. Juul noted that fashion reflects conscious and subconscious influences, making it a dynamic and multifaceted art form. Heliot Emil, typically known for its intentional design, found an unexpected softness brought forth or uncovered by technology, resulting in a collection that was surprisingly pretty yet, at times, overly long.