Helmut Lang Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Helmut Lang Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Helmut Lang Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection fashion show at New York Fashion Week FW24 (February 9, 2024).

In Peter Do's second Helmut Lang Fall 2024 collection, the runway became a reflection of our turbulent world. Amidst a backdrop of global anxieties, Do crafted a collection that served as both shield and sartorial statement, echoing the desire for protection in the face of adversity.

The Sheltering Embrace - Protection emerged as the central theme, woven into various aspects of the garments. Opening the show was a reimagined take on Helmut Lang's iconic bubble-wrap ensemble, offering a cool, contemporary perspective on sheerness while providing a sense of security. This duality, as Do emphasized, is intrinsic to the Lang identity: "control versus chaos, protection versus sex appeal."

Drawing inspiration from the "subway shirt," oversized garments designed to shield women from unwanted attention, Do presented all-gender, urban-tailored uniforms. Overcoats with side-slits and zippers, padded utility vests, and body-con dresses with astronaut-suit-inspired padding embodied this theme.

Textured Resilience - Do elevated everyday pieces through unexpected textures. Treated denim, woven leather reminiscent of ubiquitous shopping bags, and scale-like finishes adorned jeans, leather pants, shirt jackets, and knee boots. Silk blouses adorned with scarf panels, bombers with hair-friendly hoods, and face-shielding collars on double-faced wool coats showcased thoughtful details.

Tailoring with a Fortified Edge - Tailoring, predominantly in black, exuded a futuristic militaristic vibe. Waist-accentuated blazers and coats buttoned to the neck, long trouser skirts, and cargo pants paired with concealed high-collar sweaters offered both cover and comfort.

Moments of Softness in a Steel City - Amidst the fortification, glimpses of softness emerged. A glossy mustard-yellow nylon parka with a clutch-front paired with a sidewalk-skimming jersey skirt and the cement-colored shearling coat with a twist jersey top and pants modeled by Ahn Duong provided contrasting moments of grace.

A New Uniform for Our Times - Do's second Helmut Lang collection showcased a refined vision. By simplifying the runway presentation, reducing embellishments, and focusing on core garments, he created a cohesive, powerful collection. This "tough new uniform for tough times" resonates with the zeitgeist, offering a sartorial response to a world yearning for protection and resilience.

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