Kenzo Fall Winter 2024-2025 Menswear collection fashion show at Paris Men Fashion Week FW24 (January 19, 2024).
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In a captivating intersection of culture, style, and history, Kenzo unveiled its Fall Winter 2024-2025 Menswear Collection at an unexpected yet fitting venue – France's Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu. Positioned on the same street as the Kenzo studio, this magnificent library offered more than mere convenience; it served as a symbolic backdrop to a collection that masterfully wove together diverse cultural references. Nigo, the creative force behind Kenzo, sought to create a fashion experience that transcended borders, showcasing a fresh and original perspective that extended beyond the familiar realms of Paris and Tokyo.
The rich cultural tapestry that adorned the roof of the reading room set the stage for a collection that seamlessly blended tradition with contemporary flair. Nigo's adaptation of a tatami mat print transformed into a striking check pattern, while the twist-stemmed floral motif drew inspiration from karakusa, a pattern originating from China and Egypt. The resulting garments, ranging from shearling mittens to deconstructed denim workwear, exuded an explorer vibe that hinted at a journey into uncharted territories.
School uniforms became a key reference point for Nigo, with collarless blazers draped in a chain of Kenzo-themed institutional buttons. This nod to Nigo's student wardrobe intersected intriguingly with Pharrell Williams's Pont Neuf jacket, showcasing the designer's ability to infuse unique perspectives into familiar styles. Duffle coats, originally seafaring outerwear, received a contemporary twist with tatami check jacquard weaving, adding a touch of the exotic to the collection.
The Kenzo womenswear line, under Nigo's direction since 2021, has evolved from unisex styles to embrace a more conventionally feminine aesthetic. The collection featured rib-knit mini-dresses with accentuated hips, cinched by wide leather belts, and tatami print dresses with sweetheart necklines. Chunky metal neckpieces, reminiscent of Mike Oldfield's "Tubular Bells" cover art, added a bold and avant-garde touch to these standout pieces.
Nigo's exploration of padded chest pieces with straps drew inspiration from Japanese protective attire, creating a fusion of functionality and high fashion. The incorporation of chest rigs over black tailoring or outerwear transported the audience into a realm of futuristic aesthetics, reminiscent of space exploration and X-wing adventures. Additionally, letterman jackets emblazoned with Kenzo iconography showcased a nod to cross-cultural influences, offering a contemporary take on a classic silhouette.
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