Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection fashion show at New York Fashion Week FW24 (February 11, 2024).
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's highly anticipated New York City debut was a spectacle that transcended the confines of traditional fashion shows, drawing an illustrious crowd that included luminaries such as Marc Jacobs, Jenna Lyons, and Inez and Vinoodh. Renowned for his boundary-pushing designs that celebrate queer expression and gender fluidity, de Saint Sernin has become a poster boy for a new era of fashion that challenges conventional norms.
Central to his debut in New York was a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, a partnership that holds deep personal and artistic significance for de Saint Sernin. Inspired by Patti Smith's memoir "Just Kids" and Mapplethorpe's groundbreaking work, the collection pays homage to the iconic photographer's diverse oeuvre, from his delicate flower photography to his provocative exploration of the gay BDSM scene.
The runway presentation opened with ethereal organdy tees adorned with hand-cut velvet flowers, a nod to Mapplethorpe's floral compositions, before transitioning into crystal-embellished chainmail dresses and skimpy tops that exude sensuality and allure. De Saint Sernin masterfully navigates the spectrum of Mapplethorpe's work, seamlessly blending innocence with darkness as the show progresses.
Drawing inspiration from the New York office attire of the 1970s and '80s, the collection introduces leather trenches, bombers, and eyelet-fly pants paired with crisp white button-downs—a sartorial homage to Mapplethorpe's iconic self-portraits. Yet, it's the daring exploration of sexuality and nightlife that truly captivates, with de Saint Sernin pushing the boundaries of conventional design with "butt-cleavage" leather pants and briefs, daringly cut to reveal a provocative glimpse of skin.
These provocative pieces harken back to de Saint Sernin's early shows, where masculine self-expression defied traditional norms and embraced a more expansive vision of identity. With each collection, de Saint Sernin and other rule breakers continue to challenge the status quo, expanding our understanding of fashion and self-expression.
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