Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring Summer 2024 collection 'LUST' fashion show (June 25, 2023).
Marking the passage of six years since his groundbreaking off-schedule debut during Paris Fashion Week, Ludovic de Saint Sernin once again captivated the fashion world with his Spring Summer 2024 collection, titled 'LUST.' As the closing act on the menswear calendar, the designer chose the breathtaking backdrop of the Musée des Archives Nationales, drawing an audience that included industry titans like Rick Owens, Daniel Roseberry, Olivier Rousteing, and Carine Roitfeld. De Saint Sernin's trajectory from that debut to this moment is nothing short of a fashion odyssey.
Stepping into the spotlight after a brief stint at Ann Demeulemeester, De Saint Sernin carried the weight of high expectations for his latest show. Yet, instead of a grand display of dominance, he opted for a quiet yet impactful refresh. Backstage, amid a crowd of reporters and fellow designers, he explained, "I wanted to do a reset for this season and go back to what LdSS means. This collection I feel is the quintessential LdSS universe, it represents ideas of beauty, sensuality, love, and freedom, and the message to dare to be yourself."
The collection's overarching theme wove a narrative of ephemeral summer romance, meticulously illustrated through the initial eight looks. Collaborating with New York artist Diego Villarreal Vagujhelyi, De Saint Sernin introduced white brass jewelry pieces that invoked sensations of intimate touch, evoking memories of a lover's embrace. The pieces, while adorning the models, also subtly conveyed a sense of restraint, underscoring the poignant absence of tactile connection. De Saint Sernin's masterful touch brought forth an atmosphere of sophistication, eroticism, and romance, which reverberated throughout the entire show.
De Saint Sernin's designs are an embodiment of sensuality and allure, akin to the image of a person at the end of a languorous summer day. The collection's zenith was reached when he presented a diverse range of styles: mermaid skirts crafted from feather-light Japanese tweed paired with leather bustiers, his iconic tie-around open button downs transformed into edgy leather jackets, and sultry collared boleros ingeniously reimagined as cropped shirts. However, amid the creativity, moments of repetition emerged, as elastic waistband boxer shorts and casual pajama pants, accompanied by a single set of tailored trousers, fell short of showcasing the diversity inherent in the collection.
The runway exhibited De Saint Sernin's unmistakably queer and libidinous design aesthetic, a hallmark of his early collections that paved the way for inclusive conversations about gender expression. Since his 2017 debut, his impact has reverberated through mainstream collections, challenging traditional concepts of gender and sexuality. As his brand evolved into a formidable presence in the industry, a yearning emerges to witness a revival of the experimental spirit that marked his earlier work, now infused with the sophistication and market viability he has since cultivated.
Over the span of six years, De Saint Sernin has meticulously carved a distinctive identity as a designer. His vision, anchored in sincerity and nuanced interpretations of lust, has left an indelible mark. Acknowledging his accomplishments, the time has come for De Saint Sernin to embrace new horizons, as he sets his sights on more audacious challenges. As he gazes into the uncharted future, a question emerges: having constructed his world, what shape will his universe take? The forthcoming chapter holds the promise of intrigue as he navigates unexplored territories while staying true to the essence of beauty, sensuality, and freedom that continue to define his extraordinary journey.
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