Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Paris Fashion Week SS24 (October 2, 2023).
In the ethereal ambiance of Maison Margiela's headquarters, a ghostly green outline of an ocean liner flickered, setting the stage for a prequel to the intriguing saga of Count and Hen, protagonists of "Cinema Inferno." The haunting strains of a piano-cello duet, playing Beethoven’s “Sonata Pathétique,” evoked the essence of HBO’s “Succession,” subtly hinting at the central theme of the season: transmission.
Creative director John Galliano wove a poignant narrative, impeccable in its execution, amidst a season saturated with too-realistic propositions. The collection unfurled from the steely climate of a voyage, where characters' parents, hailing from disparate worlds—one, an impoverished aristocratic lineage, and the other, a daughter of industrial pretense—met for the first time during their passage to America.
The journey began with the characters impeccably dressed in early 20th-century garb, their collision course foretold. A dominant somber palette painted a rational picture, eschewing romantic entanglements. Yet, as the narrative unfolded, constraints loosened. Drapes and creases mimicked clothes that had been packed for too long, with sections of skirts held by tape and bustiers either shorn away or ingeniously folded, embodying on-the-go customization.
Gender boundaries blurred and merged as outfits seamlessly transitioned between male and female realms. Culottes with generous turned-up hems morphed into ruffled skorts, while monastic cape dresses spoke of a silent accord. Maison Margiela's brilliance shone through in its audacious disregard for traditional norms. The garments, worn indifferently by male and female models, defied convention, casting genders adrift, each model’s gait dictating the vibe—dainty and precious for a feminine aura, taciturn and stooping for a masculine perspective.
The collection signaled a deliberate rebellion, an act of throwing the rule book overboard, a course long charted by Maison Margiela and Galliano. This season, they ventured further into uncharted waters, proving once again that fashion is not just about attire; it’s a narrative, an ever-evolving tale of transformation and transcendence. Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2024 stands as a testament to the power of breaking barriers and embracing a future where fashion knows no bounds.
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