Mugler Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Casey Cadwallader's Mugler has always been known for pushing the boundaries and taking a contrarian approach in the world of fashion. While some may yearn for the extravagant spectacles associated with the original Thierry Mugler era, Cadwallader has carved his own path, capturing the imagination of a new generation with his provocative designs.

This summer, Mugler made waves by pairing a reinterpretation of Thierry's iconic bee headpiece from the 1997 couture collection with Casey's own sculpted chrome-leather body plate for Beyoncé's Renaissance tour, creating a buzz in the fashion world.

Now, the brand is shifting back to its regular seasonal schedule, marking something of a mini reset. After adopting a see-now, buy-now model during the pandemic and unveiling collections during couture weeks, Mugler is returning to business as usual. This transition follows a highly successful H&M collaboration in May, where Mugler fans eagerly queued around the block, and some pieces sold out online within eight minutes. The collaboration revealed that Mugler has a massive menswear audience and a strong demand for its boldly sexy designs outside the fashion elite's scrutiny. It also underscored the power of global visibility through a major marketing campaign.

Casey Cadwallader, reflecting on the collaboration, acknowledged that it positioned Mugler as a "big player" while recognizing that the brand is still emerging in many ways. The collaboration served as a morale boost for the growing Mugler team, which has expanded from 18 members in 2018 to 42 today, motivating them to continue pushing creative boundaries.

The Spring Summer 2024 collection showcased Cadwallader's newfound confidence in exploring bestiary-inspired designs, a Thierry Mugler trademark he had previously shied away from due to concerns of appearing "too costumey." In this collection, Cadwallader's love for octopuses and jellyfish took center stage, resulting in high-voltage, highly theatrical designs.

The runway was a pristine white stage, accentuated by mechanical fans and bright lights, as Cadwallader unveiled his underwater-inspired creations. Resin body plates with exaggerated hips, segmented tailoring with hook-and-eye closures, and tulle bases creating the illusion of floating sleeves and trouser legs paid homage to the Mugler archive. Spiral-cut denim jeans and corset-waist jackets featured ombré and polka-dot patterns inspired by sea slugs, while body-con dresses boasted flowing chiffon trains reminiscent of tentacles. Sequined bodysuits and dresses dazzled with transparent laser-cut sequin shards that pulsed like plankton.

The show featured an all-star cast, including Angela Bassett, Paris Hilton, Helena Christensen, Paloma Elsesser, Anok Yai, and Fan Bingbing, all of whom embraced the theatricality of the designs with enthusiasm.

The joyous reaction from the audience at the end of a long Paris Fashion Week was a testament to Mugler's appeal as an inclusive label that genuinely resonates with its audience. Casey Cadwallader clarified his decision to collaborate with H&M and offer lower-priced versions of his best-selling designs, expressing his desire to pivot towards eveningwear, fluidity, and silk in the future. It's clear that Mugler's fan base is ready to follow wherever the brand's creative journey leads.