Prada Spring Summer 2024 Menswear collection fashion show at Milano Men Fashion Week SS24 (June 18, 2024).
Collaborating with Raf Simons, Mrs. Prada injected a sense of fantasy and reinvented the relationship between rigid structures and dynamic elements. The collection featured a tailored silhouette inspired by the enhancing tailoring of the 1940s, while incorporating modern upgrades and a focus on liberation and enlightenment. Prada's signature floral shirts and unconventional transformations added a touch of quirkiness to the runway, culminating in a celebration of sensuality and unleashed creativity.
The collection began with a tailored silhouette that embraced the broad-shouldered aesthetic of the 1940s. The jackets featured removable pads, cinched waists, and elongated skirts and sleeves, while the high-waisted bottoms accentuated the groin area with generous side pleats before tapering down to the ankle. Simons aimed to strike a balance between architectural construction and freedom of movement, reimagining the sartorial as unconfining as the lightest poplin shirt. The transformation of heavy wools into ultralight modern fabrics exemplified the reduction and enlightenment process that defined Prada's approach.
Prada introduced a range of eye-catching elements throughout the collection. The floral shirts, adorned with fringing and distinctive sleeves, pushed the boundaries of the brand's signature Hawaiian shirts. Traditional shirts were elongated into full-length coats, defying expectations and embracing an avant-garde aesthetic. Denim jeans paired with functional multi-pocket work gilets created a sense of practicality, while fine-gauge knit shirting featured luxurious furry tufts sprouting from the fabric.
The Prada Spring Summer 2024 collection drew inspiration from renowned artists. The influence of H.R. Giger, the creator of Alien, and Joseph Beuys, who famously exhibited his own heavy rabbit felt suit, could be seen in the designs. The incorporation of heavy-looking yet lightweight materials paid homage to Beuys, while the architectural inspirations echoed Giger's fantastical creations. These artistic influences added depth and intellectual stimulation to the collection.
The color scheme of the collection transitioned from an opening black to softer shades of blush, creating a shift in mood and atmosphere. The faux fur gilets, reminiscent of Beuys' work, added texture and visual interest. The three-button Beuys jacket shape transformed into a sailing parka, crafted from technical nylon and weathered leather. Towards the end of the show, shirting in blush and pale coffee brown showcased integrated pockets and painted resin flower ornaments, intertwining functionality and ornamental aesthetics.
Prada's Spring Summer 2024 Men's Collection echoed a broader trend of embracing masculine sexuality on Milan's runways. Alongside other designers, Prada celebrated sensuality and creativity, intertwining fantasy, and personal expression. The collection engaged not only the senses but also stimulated the cerebrum, exemplifying Prada's reputation for challenging conventions and inviting introspection.
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