Pressiat Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Paris Fashion Week SS24 (September 26, 2023).
Vincent Garnier, the creative mind behind Pressiat, drew inspiration from the iconic Parisian woman of the '80s for his latest collection, channeling the era's big-shouldered and big-haired glamour. Despite being born in the '90s, Garnier paid homage to this sartorial touchstone in a uniquely subversive way.
Rather than adhering to the conventional interpretation of the '80s Parisian style, Garnier infused his designs with the spirit of German comedian Klaus Nomi and the energy of an underground club. In this underground scene, boundaries were pushed, and traditional norms were challenged. One model boldly demonstrated this by shedding a demurely clutched cape (and possibly the patriarchy) while confidently strutting down the dance floor-slash-runway, symbolizing a liberated attitude.
The collection played a ping-pong game with sensuality, shifting between nude tones and power dressing. Garnier's talent for tailoring was evident in the structured floor-length coats with wide lapels and stitched collars, offered in cream and black. A white tuxedo jumpsuit showcased his deft tailoring skills, while linebacker-sized exaggerated shoulder harnesses added a touch of drama to form-fitting minidresses for women or served as standalone statements against low-cut trousers for men.
Pressiat's collection is intentionally gender-neutral, reflecting Garnier's belief in the irrelevance of gender boundaries in fashion. He emphasized that one can be both sexy and successful, and he is committed to championing this inclusive perspective.
The collection also featured numerous asymmetric looks, including a cropped bomber jacket with hidden zip pockets, showcasing Garnier's creative approach to design.
The audience at the show, filled with Garnier's friends and models who regularly walk in his shows, celebrated his vision. The venue, held at Carbone, a techno club beneath the La Caserne sustainable fashion incubator, provided a stark contrast that highlighted the unique essence of Garnier's collection. As guests emerged into the central garden, they did so with Garnier's vision firmly in focus, embodying a world of contrasts and boundless creativity.
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