Proenza Schouler Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at New York Fashion Week SS24 (September 9, 2023).
Fashion power duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have once again demonstrated their creative prowess with the unveiling of their Spring Summer 2024 collection for Proenza Schouler. This season, the designers introduced a new monogram, an abstracted PS that bears more resemblance to an infinity symbol than traditional letters. The monogram's debut was made even more noteworthy by its unique presentation in an online auction by Phillips, where a black acrylic rendering on paper fetched an estimated $10,000-$15,000, a testament to the brand's influence and cult following.
The Proenza Schouler Spring Summer 2024 collection made its grand entrance at Phillips's Park Avenue headquarters, an unconventional runway location that added an element of intrigue to the show. While the new monogram was at the center of attention, it was subtly incorporated into the collection's designs. It adorned the chest of a delicate cashmere sweater and took the form of brass hardware on chic black loafers. Interestingly, there were more monogram stencils gracing the sidewalks around the auction house than on the actual runway, highlighting the designers' preference for understated elegance.
In a fashion landscape often characterized by rapid change and seasonal reinvention, McCollough and Hernandez are embracing a more subtle approach. They've openly rejected the pursuit of seasonal novelty in favor of refining their signature style, emphasizing evolution over revolution. "We finished the fall show and we knew right away that we really wanted to continue its spirit," McCollough explained. "To have that board of women we pulled together last season be the starting point and just kind of riff off a lot of the same ideas in a spring context."
This dedication to continuity was evident in the way the two collections - Fall and Spring - conversed with each other. It began with their choice of celebrity casting, where Chloë Sevigny was replaced by Natalie Laura Mering, professionally known as Weyes Blood, who also composed an original piece for the show's soundtrack. Mering's ensemble, featuring a white single-breasted three-button jacket and black trousers, exuded an understated, minimalist aesthetic.
Throughout the collection, Proenza Schouler showcased a blend of ordinary and exceptional. Bleached straight-leg jeans and a black leather coat with straps hanging below the hem, reminiscent of equestrian attire, made a statement in their simplicity. The utility belt strung through the belt loops added a touch of practicality to these pieces. This 'everyday chic' look bore a resemblance to Helmut Lang's aesthetic, evoking a sense of timeless style.
However, the collection was punctuated with special pieces that showcased the designers' craftsmanship. Mesh dresses made from hand-tacked ribbon and gossamer separates with "broken glass" embroidery exuded a sense of delicate artistry, elevating the collection beyond the mundane. As for accessories, the brand's iconic PS1 handbag made a return, this time in squishy leather with leather-covered hardware, adding a touch of low-key cool that harmonized perfectly with the overall collection.
Proenza Schouler's Spring Summer 2024 collection marks a departure from the trend-driven fashion industry, embracing a more subtle and sophisticated approach that pays homage to the brand's signature style. The introduction of the abstracted PS monogram serves as a symbol of this evolving yet enduring aesthetic, and with each collection, McCollough and Hernandez continue to establish Proenza Schouler as a beacon of timeless fashion in a world of fleeting trends.
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