Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2024 Men Fashion Show

Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2024 Menswear collection made its mark in Berlin, showcasing impressive tailoring, sensual fabrics, and a play on masculinity. With influences from French cinema and the iconic figures of Jeanne Moreau and Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Vaccarello presented a collection that explored the tension between suiting and soft dressing, creating a perfect distillation of contemporary menswear.

Vaccarello's collection was titled "Each Man Kills the Things He Loves," drawing inspiration from the 1950 French short film "Un Chant d'Amour" by Jean Genet. This choice of theme hinted at sensuality and criminality, setting the tone for a collection that would challenge traditional notions of masculinity.

Referencing Jeanne Moreau's performance in the movie adaptation of Genet's novel "Querelle de Brest," Vaccarello paid homage to the French nouvelle vague and its association with Parisian culture. Additionally, the influence of Rainer Werner Fassbinder's film "Querelle" connected Berlin's dissonant sexuality and powerful narratives to the collection.

Although the collection was presented in Berlin, Vaccarello's design trajectory extended beyond any specific location. The designer's approach was consistently rigorous and focused, emphasizing the interplay between tailleur and flou. Vaccarello sought to distill the essence of 50 looks, combining suiting and fluid, sensual soft dressing to create a balanced aesthetic.

Vaccarello aimed for a clear and memorable silhouette that would resonate with the audience long after the show. By utilizing thoughtful and concise design elements, he stripped away unnecessary embellishments and presented a collection that highlighted the tension between tailored pieces and ethereal, light-as-air garments.

Drawing inspiration from his women's collection, Vaccarello seamlessly translated the shape of women's clothing into menswear. Classic tailoring was juxtaposed with delicate slipper satin tanks, deep décolletés, and sensually wrapped shirts. The high-waisted pants and chunky-heeled boots added an element of sensuality and elegance to the collection.

Leopard spots and polka dots were recurring motifs throughout the collection, adding a touch of playfulness and sophistication. One-shouldered tops with bow-tie necklines created a sense of movement and grace, while draped black sweatshirts transformed into couture-inspired evening looks. The inclusion of a laidback version of smoking pants added a modern twist to traditional formal attire.

Opening and closing the show, a myriad of sublime tuxedos showcased Vaccarello's meticulous attention to detail. The tuxedos featured structured shoulders, roomy jackets, and narrow trousers, exuding an androgynous chic reminiscent of the iconic Lydia Tar. Interestingly, Tar was set and filmed in Berlin, unintentionally linking the collection to the city's artistic history.