Undercover Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

The Undercover show took an unexpected turn during its finale, defying the traditional procession of models for a remarkable display. As the lights dimmed, three models emerged from the darkness wearing strapless dresses with skirts that appeared to emit light. From a distance, the dresses resembled movie projections, but upon closer inspection, they revealed colorful flowers and even a fluttering butterfly.

Jun Takahashi, known for his inventiveness in fashion, pushed the boundaries of creativity with these terrarium dresses, which were not only a technical marvel but also carried emotional depth. Takahashi shared that he was grieving for people close to him and felt trapped in the world. The symbolism of the butterflies in the dresses represented a desire for release and freedom.

This show continued the theme of reckoning with mortality that was present in Takahashi's previous collection. It demonstrated that grief can be a powerful source of inspiration. The collection was a testament to Takahashi's focus, with a recurring motif of transparent veiling or shrouding. The initial pieces showcased neat tailoring with sheer materials that exposed the inner construction, revealing hidden items like playing cards, razors, and silk flowers. One standout piece was a camel trench coat with an outer layer that encased feathered wings, accompanied by a soundtrack from the film "Wings of Desire."

The collection evolved into more formal suits, draped in black georgette for an elegant touch. Takahashi's unique perspective shone through as he incorporated portraits from his recent oil painting exhibition, "They See More Than You Can See," held in Tokyo. Some of the garments featured figures with deleted or disappearing eyes, creating an eerie yet captivating effect. Other pieces were inspired by the paintings of the German artist Neo Rauch, adding a deeply personal and spellbinding dimension to the show.