Valentino Fall Winter 2024-25 Men Fashion Show

In a resounding declaration against toxic masculinity, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative force behind Valentino, took center stage with the Fall Winter 2024-2025 Menswear Collection. Guided by a commitment to dismantling archaic norms and promoting genuine respect and equality, Piccioli shared his vision for a new era of masculinity—one characterized by grace, gentleness, and a reimagined perspective on traditional symbols.

Unlike his previous menswear endeavors, which catered to a younger, more casual audience, Piccioli set out to reimagine the quintessential symbol of patriarchal and corporal norms: the suit. Recognizing the transformative power of made-to-measure tailoring, he aimed to break down the barriers that often segregate men's and women's fashion. The result was a collection of suits, jackets, and coats that not only adhered to classic silhouettes but also incorporated haute couture techniques and fabrics, such as chiffon linings and rounded shapes.

Piccioli's pursuit of a new grace and gentleness for men was evident in the softness of the collection, with suits described as "soft as cardigans." Departing from the traditional president's double-breasted power suit, he introduced innovative elements such as turtlenecks under shirts and ties, double lapels on jackets, and a trompe l’oeil dissection of the three-piece suit. The waistcoat, in this interpretation, became a vestigial scarf, seamlessly blending formal and casual elements.

Drawing inspiration from haute couture volumes traditionally associated with women's fashion, Piccioli applied a rounded aesthetic to menswear. This transformation was exemplified by a black single-pocket T-shirt, combining casual comfort with a subtle formality. The collection's dark-hued, long-coated appearance aligned with current menswear trends, but its substance and feeling signaled a shift in perspective—a deliberate move to see "men as human," as articulated by Piccioli.

The meticulous attention to detail extended to smartening unstructured pajama suits, upgrading choreography jackets, and redefining the grammar of cargo pants. Notably, the pockets of cargo pants were shifted to the front of the trousers, creating a nuanced reinterpretation of a classic menswear staple.