Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Paris Fashion Week SS24 (September 29, 2023).
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Yohji Yamamoto, a titan of the fashion industry with over four decades of innovation under his belt, continues to chase the elusive thrill of novelty. Backstage after his mesmerizing Spring Summer 2024 show, he candidly revealed his unwavering desire to explore uncharted creative territories, declaring, "When I start designing, I want to do something new — for me."
A stark departure from nostalgia, Yamamoto refused to dwell on his own past creations, expressing his disdain for retrospection. Instead, he orchestrated a breathtaking collision of influences from the annals of fashion history, summoning the spirits of "old couturiers" such as Gabrielle Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, and Hubert de Givenchy.
Within this hallowed juxtaposition emerged tantalizing glimpses of classic silhouettes like the iconic little black jacket, elegantly front-buttoned evening dresses, and sculptural volumes that paid homage to the grandmasters of couture. Surprisingly, even playful polka dots made a cameo.
In an era preoccupied with identity, Yamamoto's own unmistakable essence took center stage, shrouded predominantly in black, punctuated sparingly by ethereal white accents. This monochromatic palette was a testament to his unwavering commitment to precision, forsaking the capricious allure of color.
While steeped in classical references and sartorial traditions, Yamamoto's collection radiated sensuality, rebellion, and a heightened sense of attunement to the zeitgeist. His creations, sliced apart and reassembled into fresh propositions, provided a tantalizing glimpse into his creative process—a process driven by an unquenchable thirst for newness.
The show was a narrative arc, bookended by demure skirt suits and softly sensual black gowns. In between, the audience bore witness to masterful craftsmanship—a deceptively simple jacket fashioned from organza, a double-breasted suit retaining visible basting to emphasize construction, and ruffled ensembles imbued with high-octane crinkling that transformed them into graphic statements rather than mere romantic dalliances.
Amidst this sartorial symphony, Yamamoto unleashed his inner rebel. Tailored vests and trousers adorned with metallic chain belts bearing peace signs, hearts, and his own initials hinted at youthful audacity crashing an upscale soirée. These elements also nodded to his recent foray into music, capturing the spirit of his time spent in the recording studio.
In a lighthearted moment, Yamamoto confessed his desire to "make some young people looks," showcasing his penchant for witty quips. When questioned about the tantalizing flashes of skin through lace, strategically placed slits, and circular motifs on tights, he revealed their pragmatic purpose—adapting to warm-weather dressing. "Summer became too hot, so I wanted to fight against the weather," he declared. It was a nod to youthful rebellion, wrapped in utilitarian elegance.
In the world of Yohji Yamamoto, Spring Summer 2024 is an ode to relentless innovation, an unyielding pursuit of the avant-garde, and a testament to the enduring relevance of a fashion legend who refuses to rest on his laurels.
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