Zegna Spring Summer 2024 Menswear collection fashion show at Milano Men Fashion Week SS24 (June 19, 2023).
The Zegna Spring Summer 2024 Men's Fashion Show unfolded against the majestic backdrop of Alessandro Manzoni's statue, basking in the warm glow of his literary masterpiece, "I Promessi Sposi" (The Betrothed). Alessandro Sartori, the creative force behind Zegna, has consistently worked towards creating a new global language of tailoring, even as traditional sartorial codes evolve and adapt to changing times. With an emphasis on fresh and lightweight aesthetics, Sartori unveiled his vision for the future of menswear, beautifully articulated through the innovative use of linen, particularly the new proprietary Oasi Linen.
Sartori, known for his previous work at Berluti and Zegna, has been diligently developing a distinctive language and grammar of tailoring. This season, he aimed to infuse his creations with a lighter and more contemporary essence. Linen, and specifically the Oasi Linen developed by Zegna, played a central role in this collection. The fashion show took place amidst 192 bales of unprocessed golden linen, sourced from Zegna's partner producers in Normandy, known for their ideal climate for linen production.
Approximately 70% of the collection featured the Oasi Linen, and Sartori and his team achieved remarkable technical feats with this versatile fabric. The linen was skillfully integrated into the lining of construction-free leather jackets with camp collars, creating a harmonious blend of elegance and functionality. It was also woven into the boxy "guru collared" jacket, with cinching pleats beneath vertical pockets, creating a defining piece for this collection. The fabric's adaptability shone through as it took on a wool-like density in knitwear iterations, and a tactile slubby texture when paired with apricot-colored straight-cut pants and a rib-knit cardigan.
The Oasi Linen demonstrated its versatility further in deep v-neck shirts, shorts, and jackets, where it was transformed into a jacquard fabric featuring irregular seams of color. The collection initially embraced neutral tones to harmonize with the stone surroundings of Piazza San Fedele but gradually expanded into a palette of pale pink, green, blue, and the timeless elegance of camel.
As the show came to a close, Sartori took his bow, surrounded by models, the audience, and the remarkable materials that brought his vision to life. While Manzoni's statue stood silently, the designer's innovative creations spoke volumes about the future of menswear. Sartori's deft integration of Oasi Linen and his meticulous attention to detail captivated the audience, showcasing Zegna's commitment to pushing boundaries and crafting a new language of tailoring.
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