Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2024 Menswear collection lookbook (31 outfits).
Fashion, though not always the most pressing issue in life, holds the power to captivate and inspire. The Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2024 Menswear collection presented a unique blend of traditional tailoring and unconventional silhouettes. In a departure from their usual location in London, the collection debuted in Milan, where tailoring remains a pillar of menswear. With 31 distinct looks, this collection showcased Alexander McQueen's deep-rooted influence from founder Lee Alexander McQueen's formative years on Savile Row. Black and charcoal dominated the palette, setting the stage for unexpected design elements that may well extend to the upcoming womenswear collection in Paris.
Out of the 31 looks, 18 featured double-breasted jackets or coats, paying homage to the enduring elegance of Savile Row. Unlike Milan's affinity for soft, single-breasted and navy sartorial aesthetics, this collection embraced a predominantly black and charcoal color scheme. Unconventional flourishes in silhouette set these designs apart, foreshadowing their potential influence on the forthcoming womenswear line. Notably, a narrow black leather tie, aptly dubbed "James Bondage," appeared in numerous looks, adding a touch of intrigue.
The collection boasted shapely flourishes that defied convention, starting with the rounded shoulders of the opening black coat. Look 4 showcased a suit with a unique silhouette, while look 28 presented a deconstructed ceremonial regalia jacket. Collar details and unattainable pockets adorned extended skirts in reimagined frock coats, featuring black pinstripes and gray sharkskin. Additionally, Sarah Burton, the creative director, introduced traditional double-breasted jackets with precise tailoring, juxtaposed against her own interpretations of the season's popular short shorts.
Burton's vision pushed against the confines of conventional tailoring by incorporating abstract fold prints in jacquard and embroidery. This artistic collaboration with long-time McQueen collaborator Simon Ungless resulted in entirely non-figurative patterns, contrasting with the masculine figures they adorned. Chiaroscuro-inspired flower embroideries, resembling roses or Rorschach inkblots, graced a stunning white cotton suit. Crochet knit flower vests, tinged with liver-colored accents, evoked anatomically revealing dolls reminiscent of Damien Hirst's work. A regal printed cape and a flap-fronted bow-tied parka further emancipated the wearer, enabling them to blossom beyond the tightly defined bouquet of traditional tailoring.
By sheer coincidence, Burton's return to Milan, the birthplace of this collection's manufacturing process, brought forth a delightful cameo. Among the standout pieces, the zip-up biker trench hybrid in look 24 exuded an aura of personal storytelling, reflecting the wearer's individuality. This fortuitous return served as a testament to the seamless blend of Alexander McQueen's designs with the country's rich sartorial heritage.
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