Benjamin Benmoyal Spring Summer 2024 Lookbook

Benjamin Benmoyal took a deliberate shift towards a more distinctly feminine aesthetic in his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, following his debut of androgynous silhouettes in the previous season. This transition was prompted by commercial considerations, as the designer acknowledged a potential loss of buyers due to the previous collection's departure from traditional gender norms.

Drawing inspiration from his formative years in the port city of Jaffa, Israel, Benmoyal's color palette and fabric choices reflected the moody hues of sunset-lit beach evenings. The collection featured flowing strappy silk shift dresses adorned with blurred sunset motifs, as well as ecru tweed tailoring reminiscent of the city's ancient walls.

The silhouettes showcased cinched, tone-on-tone layering, with mini wrap skirts paired over flared pants, complemented by cropped shirt jackets or trenchcoats adorned with fringed detailing for a touch of rawness. Crop tops, bralettes, and corsets, featuring blue daisy-patterned jacquard, laser-cut denim, or signature stripes, revealed more skin than Benmoyal's usual style.

The collection also delved into textured finishes, emphasizing weaving techniques as a metaphorical extension of the designer's experimentation with fabrics made from old cassette tape, a foundation upon which he initially built his brand. However, this distinctive fabric was notably absent from this season's collection.

Spring introduced jersey pieces to diversify the collection, including simple T-shirts with contrasting edging in vintage hues adorned with motifs by German zoologist and artist Ernst Haeckel. Additionally, Benmoyal ventured into the realm of homeware by presenting a line of cushions crafted from fabrics sourced from his previous collections, demonstrating a commitment to repurposing materials and minimizing waste.