Brioni Fall Winter 2024-25 Men Lookbook

Founded in 1872 by Eugenio Torelli Viollier, the Circolo Filologico Milanese has long been devoted to exploring the intricate nuances of language. This tradition of intellectual inquiry recently provided a unique backdrop for Norbert Stumpfl, as he showcased Brioni's Fall Winter 2024-2025 Menswear Collection within the historic space. Known for his meticulous approach to cultured menswear, Stumpfl unveiled a collection that seamlessly blended tradition with contemporary flair.

Rediscovering Heritage - Amidst the darkened library and various rooms below, Stumpfl strategically positioned mannequins adorned with pieces that paid homage to Brioni's rich history. Noteworthy nods to recent Brioni moments were subtly incorporated into the setup, but the true revelation came from Stumpfl himself. Delving into the archives, he unearthed a fascinating detail – Gaetano Savini, Brioni's founder, had worked as Mariano Fortuny's assistant for a decade. Fortuny, a polymath celebrated for his contributions to lighting design and womenswear couture, particularly the iconic Delphos dress, provided an unexpected connection to Brioni's early color and romanticism.

Bringing History to Life - Inspired by this historical link, Stumpfl sought to weave it back into the fabric of Brioni. A pleated evening shirt, intricately embroidered with a grosgrain design by Fortuny and shared with the designer's foundation, highlighted the collaboration. An evening jacket embedded with pearlescent sequins mirrored Fortuny's use of Murano glass, while a silk jacket in bronze silk showcased the tight narrow pleating reminiscent of the Delphos gown. Technical innovation was not overlooked, with a double-faced jacket crafted from two super-light fabrics, joined meticulously by scalpel and silk.

From Sartorial to Casual Elegance - The Fall Winter 2024-2025 Menswear Collection boasted a diverse array of crushingly handsome menswear, ranging from impeccably tailored suits to casually sophisticated ensembles. Stumpfl's commitment to detail and historical relevance was evident in each piece, offering a seamless blend of tradition and innovation.

A Glimpse into the Future - In a surprising revelation, Stumpfl shared his ongoing venture into womenswear, showcasing a small cluster of mannequins adorned with floor-length tuxedo coats and impeccably cut silk wool pants. Breaking an 80-year tradition, Brioni will present its first full womenswear collection at the upcoming Milan Fashion Week, marking a significant evolution for the esteemed fashion house.