Karl Lagerfeld Spring Summer 2024 collection lookbook presented at Paris Fashion Week SS24.
The late Karl Lagerfeld, often associated with a monochromatic palette, was actually an early enthusiast of Ettore Sottsass's Memphis design movement, known for its vibrant colors, bold patterns, and abstract designs. Lagerfeld's personal Monaco apartment in the 1980s was a showcase of Memphis furniture, complete with a unique boxing-ring bed.
Hun Kim, the design director of Karl Lagerfeld, was inspired to capture the playful and upbeat spirit of Lagerfeld's fashion shows from the '80s and early '90s. During this era, models would actually smile and twirl in colorful outfits. However, Kim approached the Memphis theme with a sense of refinement, softening its sharp lines and vibrant colors. The collection predominantly featured soft, generous shapes and pastel shades like lilac, light blue, and pale yellow.
While the Memphis influence took center stage, black and white elements remained, including poplin shirtdresses, a corset-seamed shirt, and a striking trench coat crafted from performance mesh (though not rainproof, the sleeves could be artfully puffed up).
Kim also highlighted subtle branding details, such as the Karl logo cleverly integrated into a dazzle-print denim and the repeating KL monogram creating a geometric print.
During a preview at Karl Lagerfeld's Paris headquarters, preparations were underway for a client event where attendees would get an up-close look at the Met Gala outfits designed by Kim for Michelle Yeoh, Amber Valletta, and Jared Leto. Jared Leto notably stole the night with his lifelike Choupette cat suit, paying homage to Lagerfeld's beloved pet Birman.
In a playful twist, Lagerfeld's cat Birman now appears as a fictional cyclops character as part of a capsule range created in collaboration with Darcel Disappoints. Lagerfeld initially encountered Darcel Disappoints' one-eye caricatures at the iconic Paris concept store Colette. The collection also includes limited-edition figurines of the Karl Lagerfeld cyclops, a charming addition to the lineup.
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