Nicklass Kovgaard Fall Winter 2024-25 Lookbook

Nicklass Kovgaard Fall Winter 2024-25 Lookbook

Nicklass Kovgaard Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection lookbook presented at Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24 (January 29, 2024).

Nicklas Skovgaard, at the tender age of 29, embarked on a sartorial journey back to the hedonistic 1980s with his sophomore show for the Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection. Drawing inspiration from three influential muses—his mother Annie, Working Girl's Tess McGill (Melanie Griffith), and Lecia Jønsson of Danish pop-duo Laban—the designer showcased an array of voluminous and dramatic pieces that encapsulate the essence of that bygone era.

The runway was infused with "big hair energy," capturing the spirit of the 1980s. Skovgaard, despite not having lived through the era himself, vicariously channeled its essence through larger-than-life volumes and dramatic silhouettes. The opening look, a tiered bubble dress in oil-slick black, set the tone for a collection that dared to take up space and make a bold statement. A frock with a farthingale/life-saver skirt treatment on Sixten "Siggy" Sonne added another layer of drama, embracing the inflated silhouette that is currently in vogue.

Rather than adhering to hard lines or angular designs, Skovgaard opted for a soft touch in handmade knits. Continuing the expressive theme from the previous season's debut, the models stopped on round sheepskin rugs in a stone-floored church hall to convey a sense of emotion. The collection featured smocked waists, drawing attention to wide shoulders and providing a touch of nostalgia in a contemporary context.

While the term "baroque" was used to describe the ruffles in the collection, the overall vibe felt more free-spirited than structured. The show concluded with a Liza Minelli-meets-the-Snow Queen finale, adding a flirtatious and fairy tale-like touch to the runway. The playful and expressive nature of the finale captured the essence of Tess McGill's famous quote, "I have a head for business and a bod for sin," encapsulating the free-spirited attitude of the collection.

Nicklas Skovgaard showcased as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week's New Talent program, highlighting his status as a rising star in the fashion scene. Despite still managing most aspects of his brand independently, including production, Skovgaard's voice resonates with clarity, much like the bells marking the hour. The goodwill surrounding him serves as proof that his nostalgic message has been well-received, promising a bright future for this emerging Danish talent.

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