Phoebe Philo A1 Lookbook

Phoebe Philo A1 Lookbook

Phoebe Philo A1: the first collection. Meticulously crafted clothing and bags with subtle, subversive details.

Phoebe Philo's First Collection, presented as "A1," is highly anticipated and has generated significant excitement in the fashion world. The collection was recently unveiled to the press during one-on-one appointments in a bright London showroom and is set to go on sale in limited quantities on her online store. Although Philo was not physically present, her distinct fashion sensibility and meticulous design were apparent throughout the collection.

The collection reflects Phoebe Philo's signature style, characterized by luxurious fabrics, impeccable tailoring, and modernist silhouettes. The color palette is mostly restrained, with a focus on black, white, olive, and oxblood, and prints are minimal. However, what makes these seemingly simple garments intriguing are the subtle, subversive elements and edgy details. For instance, bondage straps on tailored pants, zippers running up the back of roomy mom jeans, and dramatic batwing sleeves on leather bombers and coats.

Philo's designs harken to the early days of Martin Margiela, with bold and inventive tailoring that adds an avant-garde twist. Double-breasted suits with demonstrative shoulders and notched waists present a confident and distinctive look. The collection offers a mix of dressy, roomy, and polished ensembles, with occasional outliers like four-way stretch leggings and graphic-printed ski sweaters.

There are standout pieces in the collection, such as oversized leather tote bags, bodysuits, bondage belts, swimwear with metallic orbs, and garments adorned with dense, thread-like embroideries. The jewelry is a highlight, featuring chunky necklaces, gold cuffs, and Art Deco-inspired earrings. The eyewear, with its oversized, square shape, provides maximum coverage.

Phoebe Philo aims to make her fashion brand as sustainable as possible, addressing issues of overconsumption and waste in the fashion industry. She plans to produce quantities that fall short of demand, thereby eliminating overproduction. This approach reflects her commitment to creating a product that embodies permanence.

One notable aspect of Phoebe Philo's return to fashion is her deviation from the standardized fashion calendar. She intends to release future collections according to her own schedule, emphasizing a seasonless and continuous body of work. This approach echoes her 2009 arrival at Celine when she introduced a minimal yet thrilling aesthetic that gained a devoted following.

The retail prices for the A1 collection range from $1,400 to $25,000, depending on the garment type, with most of the collection manufactured in Italy. Initially, the online store will ship to the U.K., Europe, and the U.S.

Phoebe Philo's comeback has been eagerly awaited since she announced her return to fashion with a new, independent house, with LVMH as a minority investor. The anticipation for her collection is evident, as reflected by the substantial number of followers on her Instagram account and customers registering on her website.

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