Chemena Kamali's Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection for Chloé at Paris Fashion Week focused on the evolution of the brand's core identity, particularly through the lens of the blouse. Kamali, a self-proclaimed blouse enthusiast, believes that these garments reflect societal shifts through variations in sleeve volume, padding, and yoke placement.

The collection presented ivory and peach silk blouses with pronounced shoulders, commanding sleeves, and substantial cuffs, effectively transforming them into statement pieces with jacket-like presence. These blouses, alongside delicate lace dresses featuring frothy peplums, stood out as highlights of the show.

The presentation, staged on a vast, pale green carpet amidst plywood seating, suggested a subtle shift in Kamali's approach. While past collections heavily referenced the Chloé archive, this season saw a more nuanced approach. Though Guy Bourdin's imagery from the late 1970s and Karl Lagerfeld's legacy remained influential, Kamali refrained from explicit mentions, opting instead for a more intuitive exploration of the brand's history.

Victorian-inspired heirloom jackets paired with plunging henley knits and long chiffon skirts conveyed a sense of historical resonance, aligning with the emerging narrative of the Paris season. Quilted coats with tubular fur trim echoed the rising 1980s influence in the French capital.

Kamali emphasized her exploration of "complexities, opposites and the different sides of the woman," stating that the collection represented "a natural evolution of our lives." While every look resonated with Chloé's established DNA, some were perceived as overloaded with accessories, including gold chains, logo belts, fur pompoms, and charm-laden handbags, often carried in multiples.

Kamali's connection to the brand's spirit is undeniable. However, there's a desire to see her inject more of her personal design signature and moderate the strong retro influence. The blouse, a category where she excels, offers a fertile ground for further exploration. The collection, despite featuring only a few blouses, showcased their potential as powerful, defining pieces for Chloé.