Chemena Kamali’s sophomore show as Chloé’s creative director captured the essence of the brand’s storied DNA while introducing a fresh, uplifting vision for Spring Summer 2025. Dubbed the 'Freedom Collection,' Kamali’s latest effort unfolded in a soft, sun-kissed aesthetic, blending dreamy femininity with nostalgic touches from the house’s archives.

Kamali, who took the helm of Chloé roughly a year ago, had previously worked under both Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller at the label, and her deep understanding of the brand’s roots was evident throughout the show. Following her successful debut last September, this collection took a lighter, more ethereal approach, set against the serene backdrop of the Tennis Club de Paris. Tropical plants spilled from the rafters, and models emerged from behind a wall of glass bricks illuminated in golden light, all while the angelic vocals of Elizabeth Fraser filled the space.

The collection resonated with the Chloé front row, which included stars like Sienna Miller, Natalia Vodianova, and Liya Kebede, all embodying the free-spirited aesthetic in their frilly blouses, high-waisted flares, and platform clogs. Kamali’s designs spoke for themselves, without the need for overt branding. Signature pieces such as romantic lace blouses, diaphanous point d’esprit prairie dresses, and sharply tailored pantsuits—reminiscent of those worn by U.S. Vice President Kamala Harris—channeled the essence of the Chloé woman.

Drawing inspiration from the archives, Kamali referenced founder Gaby Aghion’s iconic bubble shape from the late ’50s, as well as floral prints, lingerie-inspired looks, and delicate lace from the ’70s. Her modern interpretations included quirky bloomers, boyish bubble shorts, and lace-trimmed henley knits. Even traditionally utilitarian pieces like chore jackets and suede toppers were reimagined with puffed sleeves and draped backs, blending strength with softness.

Kamali’s playful side came through in whimsical details, like clam-shaped leather shoulder bags adorned with gold charms, including shells, stones, and signature Chloé motifs. There were touches of humor as well, with a flamingo adorning a one-piece swimsuit and a golden horse head emerging from a hobo bag. Even the shoes featured personal touches, with messages etched into platform soles reminiscent of love notes carved into trees.

Kamali’s ability to balance the heritage of Chloé with her own modern sensibility was on full display, and her appearance at the show’s close—dressed casually in wide-leg jeans and a trim blouse—cemented her place as a quintessential Chloé girl. As fashion’s constant shuffle of designers plays out, Kamali’s enthusiastic reception marked a refreshing moment of genuine support for a creative leader who is both honoring tradition and pushing it forward.