Edeline Lee Spring Summer 2026 Fashion Show

Edeline Lee’s Spring Summer 2026 collection opened with a string of polished signatures — a mock-neck charmeuse gown grazing the ankle, a cap-sleeve shift rendered in bubble flou jacquard, and a soft georgette frock scattered with watercolor polka dots. Then, with a burst of smoke and a thundering Charli XCX soundtrack, the mood shifted entirely. The designer, known for her precise, ladylike sensibility, set her collection loose. Sashes unraveled into trailing rouleau tassels, which multiplied until they became full gowns of swinging fringe. Hemlines detached, floating on hoops, which in turn transformed into sculptural frames, recalling a kinetic circus ring.

Lee described the season’s starting point as “the fleeting magic of a traveling circus — here one night, gone the next,” a theme sparked by the candy-striped interior of her Harrods concession. Circle skirts appeared in pale pink and mint, supported by varying hoop constructions that gave each look its own rhythm on the runway. Ruffled collars, bibbed dickies, and exaggerated cuffs nodded to the costumes of Pierrot clowns, while sequined column dresses caught the light like glitter left behind after the performance has ended.

The most striking development came in the form of knitwear — a first for the designer. Lee reinterpreted her signature shapes, including the perennial Pedernal dress, in flechage panels of FSC-certified viscose, a move that introduced texture and versatility while staying aligned with her commitment to ethical production. The knit pieces felt instinctive, perhaps overdue, and suggested a new commercial pathway for the brand. “These are the multi-functional pieces my woman needs,” Lee remarked, insisting that knitwear doesn’t need to be “fuzzy sweaters” to feel relevant.

Opting for a traditional catwalk format rather than one of her signature experiential presentations was a statement in itself. Without the framing of immersive theater, lectures, or installations, the clothes were left to carry the narrative — and for the most part, they did. There was a palpable sense of release and playfulness, with Lee proving she could build drama and story directly into the garments.

Still, the show occasionally veered toward spectacle for spectacle’s sake. The hooped skirts and tassel-heavy dresses, while thematically resonant, at times risked overshadowing the precise construction that defines Lee’s work. A few silhouettes felt overcomplicated, diluting the sharpness that typically underpins her collections.

Lee’s Spring Summer 2026 outing balanced risk with refinement. By stepping into a more performative runway space, she injected a sense of theatrical surprise without entirely abandoning her commercial core. The result was a collection that reasserted her technical skill, hinted at new directions, and reinforced her belief that “Made in England” can still be a rallying cry worth taking center stage.