For her Spring Summer 2025 collection, Emilia Wickstead didn’t simply retrace her previous steps or retreat to familiar territory. After exploring her darker, more androgynous side last season in an industrial setting, Wickstead chose to meld the structured femininity she’s known for with a subtle, provocative edge. This time, the setting was the grand Royal Geographical Society, where models navigated around explorers’ globes—a fitting homage to the collection’s muse, the pioneering German photographer Gisèle Freund.

Freund, who spent decades photographing intellectual icons such as Simone de Beauvoir and Virginia Woolf in their most personal settings, served as Wickstead’s inspiration. Her ability to capture the essence of her subjects resonated with the designer’s approach to this collection, which aimed to explore the duality between public personas and private lives. "Gisèle had a profound relationship with her subjects," said Wickstead. "In this collection, I’ve tried to do the same."

One photograph in particular—a shot of de Beauvoir lounging on her sofa in a peach silk shirt and tie, paired with a denim-like skirt—sparked the creative journey. This juxtaposition of casual and formal influenced many of Wickstead’s designs, from reimagined men’s ties looped into waistbands to asymmetrical gowns with a single sheet of fabric draped elegantly across the chest.

The collection unfolded with a restrained palette of soft, neutral tones before gradually welcoming bolder hues—baby blue, pastel pink, and vivid green—alongside rhythmic block prints and painterly florals reminiscent of mid-century Argentine design. Wickstead’s signature tailoring made an appearance, complemented by boyish knit polo tops, summer-ready loafers with oversized tassels, and glittering gloves and headpieces by Laura Cathcart, which added a playful, glamorous touch.

As always, Wickstead’s eye for detail shone through in every piece, from the careful construction of each garment to the eclectic mix of textures and colors. The collection felt as if it had been crafted for a “girl gang,” as Wickstead put it, one that mirrors Freund’s collection of remarkable women and their complexities.

While the collection’s intellectual depth set it apart, Wickstead’s enduring charm and curiosity also drew the attention of her devoted clientele—many of whom are powerful, creative women. Her natural conversationalist style and boundless curiosity seemed to echo Freund’s own passion for exploring her subjects through a lens. "What I loved most about Gisèle was that she believed photography was suited to a female mentality," Wickstead noted. "She believed that women were excellent observers, which made them better photographers."

This meticulous observation of women’s lives, both public and private, lent Wickstead’s designs their quiet magic. The Spring Summer 2025 collection not only continued to flex Wickstead’s creative muscles but also solidified her place as a designer who refuses to be boxed in, constantly evolving and drawing inspiration from the women who inspire her.