Erdem Fall Winter 2023-24 Fashion Show

Erdem Fall Winter 2023-2024 Collection: A Push-and-Pull between Gothic Victoriana and Rebellious Wantonness. Erdem Moralioglu, the acclaimed fashion designer known for his romantic-modern creations, has unveiled his latest collection for Fall Winter 2023-2024. This time, Erdem took inspiration from the culture and fashion of Victorian London and the house he lives in, which was once a shelter for fallen and friendless young women.

Erdem's house in Bloomsbury was home to more than 3,000 young women between 1860 and the early 20th century. As he and his architect husband peeled back the layers of their house, they found a ghostly door, arsenic wallpaper, and a hatch that may have been used to surveil the inmates. This discovery led Erdem to research the contemporary culture of Victorian London that these poor, desperate girls and women lived in.

Erdem's research inspired a push-and-pull between gothic Victoriana and rebellious wantonness in his latest collection. He wanted to work with the contrast between the strictness and buttoned-up nature of Victorian fashion and an undoneness, a surreal, cloudy, arsenic-induced dream.

The result is a collection of romantic-modern evening wear that invites the viewer into the culture of textiles, embroidery, and prints that Erdem's customers love to be involved with. The collection features jet-embroidered coats, disarrayed asymmetric taffeta skirts, exaggerated puff-topped opera gloves, and art nouveau irises that climb up through needle-punched patterns. Injections of arsenic yellow and lilac, toxic fashion colors invented in the 19th century industrial revolution, show up vividly.

However, Erdem does not neglect to speak to the broader church of those who come to him. The collection also features tailoring, including a black tuxedo and a chrysanthemum-brocade trouser suit. And perhaps the highlight of the collection is a double-breasted yellow-wallpaper coat, proper and posh, except for the fact that it was unraveling at the hem.

Erdem's Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection is a gift for those who love to explore the past while staying true to the present. With its mix of gothic Victoriana and rebellious wantonness, the collection invites us to dream of the past while remaining firmly grounded in the present.