Heliot Emil Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Heliot Emil, the brainchild of Copenhagen-based brothers Julius and Victor Juul, continues to push the boundaries of fashion with their Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection. While remaining rooted in Parisian sensibilities, the brand has embarked on a journey to redefine its relationship with the traditional catwalk, opting instead for a pop-up exhibition in the heart of the fashion capital.

Collaborating for the second time with Alpinestars, an Italian company renowned for its focus on motor sports and material innovation, Heliot Emil unveiled a collection that seamlessly blends functionality with avant-garde design. The partnership yielded two distinct forms: co-signed pieces utilizing Alpinestars materials and wearable sculptures crafted from deployed airbags, emphasizing the transformative power of fashion beyond mere aesthetics.

Julius Juul's aesthetic is characterized by utilitarianism, eschewing decorative elements in favor of functionality. While echoes of Helmut Lang's minimalist ethos may occasionally reverberate through the collection, Juul's interpretation of futurism remains refreshingly contemporary. Previous experiments with 3D printing technology and AI design laid the groundwork for incorporating Shieldex fabric, capable of blocking radiation from cell phones, into select pieces—a testament to the brand's commitment to innovation and functionality.

The collection showcased two distinct approaches to protection: a hard-edged defensive stance juxtaposed with a softer, more embracing aesthetic. Alpinestars materials and metal-infused fabrics exemplified the former, while garments crafted from luxurious materials such as cashmere, mohair, silk, and alpaca embodied the latter. Comforting straps enveloped the body, while suede trousers adorned with riveted panels of pony hair offered a chic alternative to traditional denim.

Standout pieces included outerwear crafted with meticulous attention to detail, with Julius Juul's focus shifting towards upgrading and softening fabrications rather than pursuing avant-garde silhouettes. The juxtaposition of Dune-inspired styling against the backdrop of a Danish limestone quarry added a timely and apt dimension to the collection, further highlighting Heliot Emil's commitment to pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion.