Ellen Hodakova Larsson's Fall Winter 2025-2026 show, following her LVMH Prize win, showcased a designer grappling with newfound attention and exploring themes of "body fragility." While known for her upcycled designs and nature-inspired aesthetic, this collection saw Larsson delving into more overtly sensual and conceptual territory.

The show opened with a rock-chic aesthetic, featuring leather ensembles and a new, generously sized bag. Larsson aimed to create "punk Giacometti figures," characterized by narrow, linear silhouettes. However, some awkwardness in fit and mobility raised questions about the practicality of certain designs.

Tailoring, a Hodakova staple, was interspersed with these sexier looks, highlighting the designer's exploration of "the vulnerable you and the strong you." Soft-piled corduroy was transformed into hourglass dresses and a Mick Jagger-inspired pantsuit, hinting at the brand's foray into menswear.

Themes of restriction and release were prevalent. Shroud-like dresses, offering a gentler take on armor-like pieces, contrasted with flapper-inspired skirts, suggesting moments of abandon. Larsson's walks with her dog in open fields inspired the use of wind as a motif, resulting in circular cut-outs in men's trousers, used to create coif-like pieces and more transgressive designs, such as a "naked dress" constructed from folded pants.

Larsson's signature use of multiples was evident in garments crafted from vintage fur hats and the introduction of music strings. These filaments, used to adorn white dresses and cage naked torsos, created freeform compositions that evoked a "jazz-like order," reflecting the dissonance and confusion of the times.

The show's finale featured a model confined within a double bass, a challenging symbol that contrasted with the ephemeral nature of music. The collection, teeming with ideas, felt more theme-reliant than previous ones, with some concepts resonating more strongly than others.

While not every element achieved perfect harmony, Larsson's exploration of fragility, freedom, and the interplay between body and garment demonstrated her evolving artistic vision. As she continues to develop her unique voice, the fashion world would do well to listen closely.