Jean Paul Gaultier Fall Winter 2024-25 Haute Couture Fashion Show

The air crackled with anticipation at Jean Paul Gaultier's headquarters, and not just because of the malfunctioning air conditioning. All eyes were on Nicolas Di Felice, the greenest designer yet to tackle the house's collaborative project. Despite his relative lack of experience compared to past collaborators, Di Felice delivered a show that was both innovative and true to Gaultier's legacy.

Di Felice has already made waves with his work at Courrèges, transforming the heritage brand into a haven for sexy club wear and futuristic separates. Here, he channeled his youthful energy into a collection that paid homage to Gaultier's history of celebrating individuality.

The show unfolded like a Parisian coming-of-age story. The models began covered up in long-sleeved jackets, dresses, and high necklines, symbolizing arrival in the city. Gradually, as the show progressed, the clothing became more revealing, shoulders emerged, and dresses peeled away at the hips, culminating in a finale of provocative poses.

The collection mirrored a journey from darkness to light, with each look paired with its archival inspiration on Di Felice's mood board. But the true unifying element was the humble hook-and-eye closure. Inspired by a fabric swatch from the archives, Di Felice transformed these closures into a versatile design feature. Used on everything from sleek dresses to chainmail-like creations, the hooks-and-eyes allowed for adjustable levels of exposure, reflecting a theme of adaptability.

This show solidified Di Felice's reputation as a major talent. With his innovative approach and respect for Gaultier's legacy, he has breathed new life into the iconic fashion house.