Kanako Sakai Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Kanako Sakai presented her Fall Winter 2024-2025 Collection at Shibuya Hikarie in Tokyo on March 13, 2024.

Drawing inspiration from Sigmund Freud's seminal work "The Interpretation of Dreams," which explores the convergence of love and hunger within the female breast, designer Kanako Sakai delves into the concept of femininity in her latest collection. For Sakai, the female breast symbolizes a point of privilege in the narrative of human relations, prompting her to confront the notion of femininity—something she had previously kept at arm's length.

In preparation for her collection, Sakai turned to Marilyn Yalom's "A History of the Breast," a comprehensive exploration of the cultural significance of the breast from ancient to modern times. The breast has been portrayed as a nurturer of infants, an object of desire for men, and a body part often subjected to concealment. Throughout history, the breast has been perceived through the lens of others' desires and expectations, reflecting broader societal constructs of femininity. Yalom writes, "Without realizing that their choices may not be their true preferences, women select items to please others."

Sakai's avoidance of exploring femininity stemmed from the realization that it had often been defined by external forces rather than her own volition. Thus, this season, Sakai endeavors to reclaim and embrace elements of femininity she had previously shied away from, while maintaining her signature clean aesthetic.

While Sakai's brand has been characterized by refined tailoring and sleek lines, this season sees a juxtaposition of traditionally feminine elements. Pieces such as corset-inspired vests with sharply pointed cups, pants crafted from leather and lamé fabrics featuring heart-shaped cutouts, and dresses with intricate knotting details at the front exemplify this contrast. Trench coats and vests, crafted from herringbone fabrics layered with lace, offer a delicate yet structured silhouette.

However, amidst the incorporation of new elements, Sakai's commitment to craftsmanship remains steadfast. Materials sourced from Japanese artisans, such as the "shakuhaku" fabric woven by Minami Raden from Tango, Kyoto, feature prominently in this collection. Shakuhaku fabric, woven with silver threads that create a subtle seven-color pattern, is used in signature Sakai pieces like long coats and corsets, symbolizing the brand's dedication to traditional Japanese techniques.

Japanese motifs, another hallmark of Sakai's designs, are evident throughout the collection. Traditional family crests and hexagonal "turtle shell and flower" patterns adorn neckties, boots, and mules, elevated with metallic accents for a contemporary edge. The subtle gradations created by the shakuhaku fabric also reflect a Japanese aesthetic of appreciating the beauty of randomness.

In her creative process, Sakai draws parallels with the artistry of Yayoi Kusama, known for her works adorned with countless protrusions. Kusama's creations, born from a fear instilled by societal norms that dictated female bodies should be concealed, serve as a poignant reminder of the power of self-expression through art. Similarly, Sakai's collection represents a personal journey of rediscovery—a deliberate effort to retrace and redefine aspects of femininity that were once overlooked.

Kanako Sakai's Fall/Winter 2024-2025 Collection encapsulates a bold exploration of choice and self-expression, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design elements to create a nuanced narrative of femininity and empowerment.