Sacai’s SS25 show marked a turning point for the brand, signaling its evolution from an insider favorite to a global powerhouse. With a front row packed with rising stars and influencers, designer Chitose Abe showcased her avant-garde designs to a broader audience. Yet, despite this newfound global attention, Abe’s focus remained on her roots as she reflected on 25 years in the industry.

The collection drew heavily from familiar Sacai archetypes—peacoats, marinière sweaters, trenches, and army surplus jackets—but with a distinctly Parisian influence. Abe’s recent decision to open a Paris office seemed to have shaped the collection, bringing a couture-like flair to her signature deconstructed pieces. Silky white shirt collars and gold SA embroidered monograms hinted at a French sensibility, while other details, like bustles on striped tees and sheer panels in chunky knits, elevated the collection’s complexity.

Abe’s knack for blending the familiar with the innovative was most apparent in the playful use of texture. Multicolor fringe evoked a luxurious fur-like effect on miniskirts and a chubby coat, adding a tactile richness that felt as refined as any couture fabric. The show’s finale featured a trio of evening looks that reimagined the classic tuxedo, deconstructed in a way that made them simultaneously black-tie appropriate and wholly unconventional—true to Sacai’s experimental ethos.

In this collection, Abe demonstrated her ability to both honor her brand’s origins and push its boundaries, embracing Parisian chic while maintaining Sacai’s distinct avant-garde identity.