Vetements Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Guram Gvasalia's return to the helm of Vetements was nothing short of grandiose, with a front row packed with industry luminaries and a collection that pushed the boundaries of size and scale. In a show boasting a staggering 90 looks, the majority oversized, Gvasalia demonstrated his penchant for bold statements and unapologetic extravagance.

From the outset, the emphasis was on exaggerated proportions, with tailored suits featuring padded tubes through the shoulder seams and under the lapel collar, creating towering silhouettes. This motif extended to T-shirts, hoodies, and trenches, where the padded tubes formed full circles, resembling oversized hula hoops or pool floaties. Even bottoms were supersized, with jeans extending into long trains via split seams and dress hems so ponderous that models had to gather them in their hands to navigate the runway.

While the collection showcased Vetements' signature irreverence and commitment to redefining everyday basics, there was a sense that the brand was treading familiar territory rather than breaking new ground. Gvasalia's exploration of excess seemed to echo themes from the brand's past, with nods to previous collections and cultural references.

Yet, beneath the surface, there was a hint of familial tension and introspection. The oversized T-shirt emblazoned with "Not Mom's Favorite" and the hoodie featuring a line from South Park—"you're a towel"—hinted at unresolved family dramas and perhaps a veiled reference to Gvasalia's brother, Demna, who departed Vetements to helm Balenciaga.

Despite the familiarity of some motifs, the collection was not without its standout moments. Crystal-embellished jersey dresses dazzled on the runway, culminating in a show-stopping finale featuring Marcia Cross of Desperate Housewives fame.