In a landmark moment for the house of Vivienne Westwood, the brand unveiled its Spring Summer 2025 collection with its first-ever runway show in India. Held at the iconic Gateway of India in Mumbai, the show aimed to spotlight the country’s rich textile legacy while bridging cultures through craftsmanship and design. The location—famously used by Dior for its 2023 presentation—served as a symbolic and architectural nod to global fashion’s growing relationship with the Indian subcontinent.

This debut was more than just a change in scenery. Organized in collaboration with the Department of Textiles, the Government of Maharashtra, and the Vivz Fashion School, the show was positioned as a tribute to traditional Indian textile practices. The initiative aligns with the brand’s broader efforts to expand its global footprint while engaging in cultural dialogue through fashion.

The SS25 collection followed Westwood’s recent “Sun” campaign, also shot in Mumbai, in collaboration with photographer and visual artist Kshitij Kankaria. This growing affinity for India stems partly from the personal experiences of the brand’s CEO, whose travels to the country—including a formative visit to Goa in the 1970s—inspired the decision to bring the collection to Mumbai.

On the runway, the brand presented not only its new SS25 designs but also special archival pieces and a capsule of couture looks made with hand-woven Chanderi silks and Khadi cotton. The use of Khadi, historically associated with Mahatma Gandhi and India’s independence movement, added political and cultural weight to the collection. These materials were sourced from across India, with support from textile institutions like Khadi India and Aaranya, reinforcing a commitment to craft and sustainable production.

Visually, the collection featured muted tones of sky blue, ivory, and sand, drawing on the natural hues of the Indian landscape. However, this subtle palette and the understated silhouettes marked a noticeable departure from Westwood’s usual high-drama, punk-inflected aesthetic.

Though the intent was rooted in honoring Indian craft and tradition, the presentation drew mixed reactions. Some critics and fans felt that the show lacked the rebellious spirit and sharp edge synonymous with the Westwood name. The minimalism was interpreted by some as a missed opportunity to blend the brand’s anarchic heritage with India’s bold visual culture.

Still, the event stands as a milestone for Vivienne Westwood—marking not only a new geographical chapter for the brand, but a continued exploration of how fashion can function as cultural homage. Whether or not it resonated with everyone, the Mumbai show firmly planted the British house on Indian soil, offering a dialogue between Westwood’s legacy and a centuries-old textile tradition.