The Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2025 show marked a noticeable shift in mood as Andreas Kronthaler seemed ready to emerge from the mourning period following the passing of the iconic designer. This season, the focus was on something that had long captured Kronthaler’s attention: the essence of strong, sexy women, a theme deeply intertwined with the legacy of Vivienne Westwood herself.

Backstage, Kronthaler explained his inspiration, describing the type of woman he’s always been drawn to as “this very strong woman who looked after us, my ideal woman.” His vision wasn’t limited to one archetype, however. “But they’re all different,” he noted. “Something for every kind.”

Gone were many of the historical references that have been a hallmark of past collections. Instead, Kronthaler leaned into a more contemporary, liberated aesthetic that fused the aerobic sensuality of Jane Fonda’s workout videos with the carefree, dance-all-night energy of Studio 54. The result? Sleek, body-conscious designs featuring plunging necklines, shimmering sheer fabrics, and an unabashed celebration of femininity.

Daywear pieces, too, channeled empowerment, with a standout being a white, double-breasted ensemble worn by Irina Shayk. It radiated a commanding, boss-lady energy that encapsulated the strength and confidence of the modern Westwood woman. Kronthaler emphasized the importance of dressing up and living in the moment, stating, “It’s the most important thing because you never know what can happen to you. You always want to look great.”

This season also marked a significant change for the brand: the end of its co-ed runway shows. “I could concentrate on the women, for once. I don’t want the men to distract me constantly,” Kronthaler said, reflecting on the decision to show women’s and men’s collections separately, with the men’s presentation to come later.

The show’s setting, just steps away from Place de la République—a site often associated with activism and protests—offered the perfect backdrop for the brand’s continued advocacy. This season, the focus was on the freedom of Paul Watson, a marine wildlife conservationist currently detained in Greenland and facing possible extradition to Japan for his anti-whaling campaigns. The show notes highlighted this cause, reinforcing the Westwood legacy of combining fashion with activism.

With this collection, Kronthaler not only honored Vivienne Westwood’s spirit but also signaled a new chapter for the house, one rooted in empowerment, sensuality, and living in the moment.