Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2024 Lookbook

Emilia Wickstead's Pre-Fall 2024 collection draws profound inspiration from Bridget Riley, the renowned British Op art pioneer celebrated for her intricate geometric patterns and captivating canvases. Wickstead's creative process invariably begins with the muse, and this season, her focus on Riley has yielded a collection that intertwines art and fashion with remarkable sophistication.

The influence of Riley's art is immediately apparent in Wickstead's designs. A standout piece in the collection is a dress fashioned from a black-and-white chevron weave, creating a hallucinatory shimmer. The dress features wiggly seams across the bust, reminiscent of oversized ric rac, adding a dynamic and playful element. Another highlight is a butter-yellow strapless silk dress, subtly imprinted with triangular patterns, which are accentuated by precise pleats across the bodice. “It’s a tribute to Bridget Riley, but done in a modern way,” Wickstead explained, emphasizing her contemporary reinterpretation of Riley's legacy.

Wickstead's inspiration extends beyond Riley's artworks to her personal style. Riley's signature look, characterized by suiting, sweaters, and cardigans, played a pivotal role in shaping the collection. Wickstead's mood board featured photographs of Riley alongside floral images by Irving Penn, reflecting the seamless blend of artistic and sartorial influences. Particularly notable are the denim pieces, woven with a subtle chevron pattern, paying homage to artists' traditional workwear. “She really embodied this sense of creativity and strength and purpose in the way she dressed,” Wickstead remarked, highlighting Riley's impact on the collection's ethos.

To capture the essence of this collection, Wickstead collaborated with actress Michelle Dockery, known for her versatile artistic talents. The partnership was a natural extension of their previous collaboration when Wickstead designed Dockery’s wedding dress. The lookbook, featuring Dockery, is intentionally pared back to spotlight her presence. “To me, Michelle is an artist in her own right—she’s best known for being an actress, of course, but she’s also trained as a dancer,” Wickstead noted. “She’s a true performer,” embodying the creative spirit and strength that Riley represented.

Despite the strong artistic influences, the collection remains true to Wickstead's signature style, featuring vibrant gowns adorned with eye-catching florals. A painterly dahlia print stands out, ranging from delicate pastels to vibrant yellows and greens. In a challenging market climate, with the e-commerce sector facing significant hurdles, Wickstead’s ability to innovate while maintaining her brand's core identity is crucial. Having launched her brand in the aftermath of the 2008 financial crisis, Wickstead possesses the resilience and strategic insight to navigate turbulent times effectively. Her adeptness at evolving her designs each season ensures that her collections remain relevant and captivating.

Emilia Wickstead’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection is a testament to her skill in blending artistic inspiration with modern fashion, creating pieces that honor the legacy of Bridget Riley while maintaining a fresh and contemporary appeal.