Erdem Resort 2024 Lookbook

Erdem Moralioglu has once again found inspiration in history, this time captivated by the allure of the late Duchess of Devonshire, Deborah "Debo" Devonshire. His pre-spring collection for 2024 pays homage to the romantic aesthetic of the 1950s and showcases a range of exquisitely designed garments that reflect the Duchess's eccentric yet grand style. Drawing from his deep-dive research into the Duchess's wardrobe and historical archives, Moralioglu presents a collection that is rich in intricate detailing, lavish prints, and jewel embellishments.

The collection begins with a statement piece—an oversized alpaca animal-printed A-line swing coat, setting the tone for the entire line. Moralioglu masterfully combines lavish draping, striking prints, and opulent embellishments to create an array of eveningwear that exudes elegance and sophistication. One standout piece is a black velvet off-the-shoulder dress, adorned with bows reminiscent of a portrait of Deborah by Cecil Beaton. This reference pays homage to her iconic image and adds a touch of nostalgia to the collection.

Deborah Devonshire's love for collecting insect brooches becomes a central theme throughout Erdem's Resort 2024 collection. Moralioglu incorporates beetle, spider, and dragonfly jewelry as elegant adornments on ballgowns and effortlessly draped cashmere twinsets. These exquisite details capture the whimsical essence of the Duchess's style, showcasing her affinity for nature and the outdoor life. In addition, Moralioglu reinterprets his signature trench coats, introducing fan-pleated tweed and Prince of Wales checked walking suits with kilted skirts, reflecting the countryside aesthetics cherished by the Duchess.

Debo Devonshire's connection to the famous Mitford sisters has long fascinated fashion designers, writers, and artists. Erdem's exploration of her style adds to the existing literary fascination surrounding the Mitford family. As the youngest of the sisters, Deborah dreamed of marrying a Duke, a dream she fulfilled. Erdem's relationship with Laura Burlington, who is connected to the current Duke and Duchess of Devonshire and an early supporter of the brand, has granted him access to the Duchess's wardrobe in the family's house archive. This privileged insight has fueled Moralioglu's creativity and enabled him to craft a collection that authentically reflects her unique fashion sense.

Campbell Addy's photographs for the lookbook transport viewers to the ambiance of Chatsworth, the Duchess's grand residence. The black and white marble floors and the hidden corners covered in dust sheets allude to the opulent backdrop against which the collection was envisioned. Given Moralioglu's passion for extensive historical research, it is safe to assume that this pre-spring collection only scratches the surface of his findings. With his upcoming September show, fashion enthusiasts can expect even more captivating designs inspired by the enigmatic Duchess of Devonshire.