Paco Rabanne Resort 2024 Lookbook

Fashion is a realm of contradictions, where the pursuit of novelty often intertwines with a reverence for tradition. In the case of "heritage" houses, this push-and-pull dynamic is particularly evident. Julien Dossena, who joined Paco Rabanne in 2014, has become known for his ability to juxtapose elements of luxury and ease, breathing new life into the Maison's DNA while maintaining a youthful spirit. The 2024 resort collection continues this tradition, presenting a range of garments that effortlessly merge sophistication and relaxation, accompanied by Paco-inspired accessories.

Dossena's resort collection showcases an intriguing blend of fancy and relaxed elements, which coexist harmoniously in the garments. The lookbook opens with a holiday capsule, featuring the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. Here, Dossena reinterprets silhouettes from the 1930s, embellishing them with Paco-inspired accessories. Mesh and lace are skillfully paired, and Deco-inspired geometries and snowflakes reflect the prismatic shapes achieved through Paco Rabanne's renowned linking technique. The winter wonderland theme is further accentuated by ice cube-like strap treatments.

The lookbook then takes us to the Trocadero, where Dossena delves into his love for boho luxe, fringe, tapestry, and grunge. Drawing inspiration from the '70s and '90s, the designer successfully updates visual codes from those eras, infusing them with a contemporary twist. Military, Klute-ish, and grunge-inspired looks dominate, accompanied by tough-girl boots, including striking designs created in collaboration with New Rock. While the collection includes obligatory metal link dresses, Dossena introduces a dramatic touch with large, bold single sequins adorning the hems. Metallic or diamante embroidery adds a non-literal extension of the house's signature metallics and shine, while studded knits present a concept with further potential for exploration.

Grunge serves as a recurring touchpoint in Dossena's designs, and upon closer examination, its ethos and physicality reveal a clear connection to Paco Rabanne's early creations. Both grunge and Rabanne's initial designs emerged from a resourceful approach, making use of available materials. Just as Seattleites embraced worn jeans, flannel shirts, and thermals to combat the cold, Rabanne, an expatriate Spaniard in Paris, forged connections using leftover leathers and unorthodox materials like plastic and metal. While the resort collection exhibits finesse and a well-defined hierarchy between high and low elements, it lacks the youthful spirit of inventiveness that challenges the boundaries of fashion. Instead, it leans towards nostalgia, looking backward rather than forging ahead.