Loewe Spring Summer 2025 Men Fashion Show

Jonathan Anderson takes a surprising turn for Loewe's Spring 2025 menswear collection, opting for a more subdued and introspective approach.

The atmosphere of the show foreshadowed the collection's theme. A vast, empty space with tiny black sculptures of mice and a copy of Susan Sontag's "Against Interpretation" hinted at a focus on minimalism and intellectual exploration. The clothes themselves mirrored this restraint, with the classic black suit as a recurring motif.

Long, often gold-painted pheasant feathers adorned headbands, partially obscuring the models' faces. This touch of theatricality contrasted with the bare-chested models in billowing draped pants, creating a sense of both vulnerability and defiance.

The collection offered a diverse range of looks. Checkered shorts and polo shirts evoked a 1950s picnic vibe, while a biker jacket with a cocktail dress neckline hinted at a more daring side. This play on contrasts showcased Anderson's ability to surprise and challenge expectations.

The starting point for the collection was a black-and-white photo of a woman's pump, displayed alongside the runway. Anderson aimed for a collection as sharp and focused as the image. He emphasized the quality and practicality of the materials, like the lightweight silk mohair used in tailoring.

While the collection lacked the usual Loewe flash, there were subtle subversions. Oxford bag trousers and roomy khaki coats hinted at English schoolboys and military uniforms, offering a touch of rebellion. The finale's brown leather coat merging seamlessly with black ostrich skin exemplified Anderson's masterful use of materials.

Overall, the Loewe Spring 2025 menswear collection is a departure from the brand's usual showmanship. Instead of adrenaline-pumping thrills, it delivers a hypnotic and thought-provoking experience that might have a profound influence on menswear trends.