Tom Ford Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show at Milano Fashion Week SS24 (September 21, 2023).
Closeups for Tom Ford Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show.
Peter Hawkings made his runway debut at Tom Ford, presenting a collection that could be described as "Tom Ford lite." The entire ambiance, from the velvet banquette seating to the rectangular tortoise glasses worn by the designer during his bow, evoked memories of Ford's hedonistic era at Gucci in the '90s.
A Nostalgic Tribute - The collection paid tribute to the days when Amber Valletta's slinky white jersey gowns and Gwyneth Paltrow's velvet pantsuits redefined fashion and embraced the glamour of the 1960s and 1970s. However, it lacked some of Ford's signature showmanship and polish.
A New Direction - Hawkings, who worked with Ford for 25 years, expressed his desire to chart a new course. He emphasized a departure from oversized fashion, focusing on highlighting the elegance of the body through impeccable fits. Attention to detail was paramount, evident in everything from bags to hardware, and even a complete overhaul of shoe design for comfort and style.
Exclusive Fabrics and Homage - The fabrics in the collection were exclusively developed for this showcase. The collection paid homage to Detroit-born Black supermodel Donyale Luna, featuring a slick wardrobe of leather jackets, side-slit skirts, threadwork dresses, fringed gold minis, and silky shirts unbuttoned to the navel.
Nods to Ford's Iconic Styles - Hawkings revisited Ford's iconic velvet pantsuits, infusing the look with cheeky short-shorts. He also embraced slinky jersey dresses with keyhole cutouts, open backs, and gold buckles.
Inspiration from Family - While Ford drew inspiration from Studio 54, Hawkings' love for the '60s and '70s stems from his mother's creativity. He recalled her creating patterns from YSL Vogue patterns, despite their non-privileged background.
Connecting Men's and Women's - Hawkings' broader vision is to bridge the gap between Tom Ford women's and men's collections. He achieved this through fine tailoring, a shared vivid color palette, and metallic accents.
Tom Ford's Spring Summer 2024 collection, under the direction of Peter Hawkings, was a nostalgic journey that celebrated Ford's iconic styles while presenting a new vision. The collection was controlled and commercial, making it accessible to those seeking a taste of Ford's greatest hits without scouring the vintage market. As Hawkings continues to grow into his role, there's hope that he will infuse the brand with his own creative spark while honoring its storied heritage.
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